FAQ

The choice of heating wire is based on the heat load calculated based on the building's envelope. If the wire is selected for a 10-square-meter house and used in a 12-square-meter room, the power will be too low to achieve the desired heating effect.

The meter power of the heating wire is fixed, and the heating temperature is constant. A single set of wires may not heat at all, or may heat at all. If one set of wires is not heating, check: 1. Is the thermostat working properly? 2. Is the heating wire damaged? 3. Is the power cord properly connected?

If the heating wire is showing signs of heating up, it's normal. In this case, 1. If the thermostat is in dual-temperature mode, check the thermostat display to see if the floor temperature probe overheat protection is indicated. 2. Is the room's power configuration sufficient to meet the 26°C heating requirement?

Both use low-temperature radiant floor heating. The difference between water-based and electric floor heating lies solely in the heat source; the heating principles are the same. Water-based floor heating circulates water in closed pipes and does not humidify. While both use low-temperature radiant heating, unlike the strong convection heat exchange of air conditioning, both offer high levels of comfort.

The heating wires are designed and manufactured with numerous protective measures in mind, and are buried underground to prevent damage unless caused by human error. A safety wire (ground wire) is built into the heating wires during production. If a wire damages and causes a leakage, the air switch will trip immediately, preventing any potential danger.

All electrical devices, such as televisions and cell phones, emit electromagnetic radiation, but this is not the same as harmful radiation. The electromagnetic radiation generated by heating wires is minimal and poses no threat to human health. Furthermore, heating wires are manufactured with a metal shielding layer to further minimize electromagnetic radiation.

Underfloor (radiant) heating is exceptionally efficient due to its ability to deliver consistent and gentle warmth evenly across the entire floor surface at low temperatures. By concentrating heat in the lower part of the room—where it’s most needed—it minimizes heat loss and eliminates energy waste. This targeted and uniform heat distribution allows for precise control, enabling you to warm only the rooms you want, exactly when you want, resulting in significant energy savings and enhanced comfort.

In homes built to CSH Level 4 or above, the Underfloor Heating is well-suited to serve as the primary heating solution.

For older properties with less effective insulation, it is generally recommended to supplement underfloor heating with an additional heating system.

To determine definitively whether extra heating is necessary, it’s best to consult an architect who can perform a detailed heat-loss assessment tailored to your home.

Yes, electric underfloor heating is very safe as it operates without any moving components or exposed heating elements, unlike many traditional heating systems.

This type of heating creates a secure and comfortable environment for families, eliminating risks associated with radiators such as hot surfaces at low levels or sharp metal edges. This makes it especially suitable for homes with young children, elderly individuals, or anyone who may be more vulnerable to accidents or burns.

Electric underfloor heating is surprisingly affordable to use. In a typical bathroom of average size, the daily running cost can be well under 15 pence, depending on insulation and usage patterns. This low operating expense makes it an efficient choice for maintaining comfortable warmth without significantly increasing your energy bills.

Sure. Our electric underfloor heating solutions are specifically engineered for situations where floor height needs to be preserved. Featuring an ultra-slim heating cable of just 1.8 mm, the system can be fitted directly beneath your floor finish, delivering efficient warmth without any noticeable change in floor level.

Traditional radiators function primarily through convection rather than direct radiation. They heat the surrounding air to around 65–75ºC, which then rises toward the ceiling, cools, and sinks again, creating a continuous circulation of warm and cool air.

In contrast, underfloor radiant heating—whether electric or hydronic—operates more efficiently by warming the floor and surrounding surfaces first. This method requires lower operating temperatures and significantly less energy compared to conventional radiator-based systems.

Many customers often ask whether underfloor heating is compatible with their specific type of flooring. The good news is that there are options available to suit almost any floor surface. To help you choose the right system, we offer detailed information and guidance so you can find the perfect fit for your home.

When installing under-tile heating, screed is typically used as the base for the tile adhesive. It’s essential to wait until the flexible tile adhesive has completely dried before switching on the underfloor heating system. This drying process usually takes between 7 to 10 days to ensure the adhesive sets properly. Activating the heating too soon can cause the screed to dry unevenly and rapidly, potentially compromising the stability of the subfloor.

Always adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended drying times and guidelines.

Using underfloor heating to heat an entire home offers numerous advantages, from lowering energy costs to creating more usable space since radiators are no longer necessary. In many situations, underfloor heating can serve as the main heating source, provided the rooms are adequately insulated. To determine the heating requirements for each room and confirm whether the insulation is sufficient for whole-house underfloor heating, a heat loss assessment must be performed. This evaluation is typically done by professionals such as builders, architects, or heating specialists.